In theory, long-term use of AHAs may reduce skin discoloration by encouraging the old, discolored skin cells to turn over. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends glycolic acid for discoloration. A more intense treatment can help, too, such as this citric-acid mask from Mario Badescu. You may be familiar with benzoyl peroxide and other acne-fighting ingredients for stubborn blemishes. AHAs may also help treat and prevent recurring acne.
Acne pimples occur when your pores are clogged with a combination of dead skin cells, oil sebum , and bacteria. Exfoliating with AHAs can help loosen and remove the clog.
Continued use may also prevent future clogs from forming. AHAs may also reduce the size of enlarged pores, which are commonly seen in acne-prone skin. Skin cell turnover from exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids can even reduce acne scars. Some acne products also contain other AHAs, such as citric and malic acids, to help soothe inflamed skin. You can use AHA products on other acne-prone areas, including your backside and chest. According to the Mayo Clinic , it can take two to three months before you start to see significant acne improvements.
You also need to use the products consistently—skipping daily treatments makes it take longer for the ingredients to work. Try an acne-clearing gel to get rid of dead skin cells and excess oil, such as this one from Peter Thomas Roth.
Acne-prone skin can still benefit from an AHA peel, but make sure you look for one designed for your skin type. In addition to their own distinct benefits, AHAs can make your existing products work better by increasing their absorption into the skin. For example, if you have too many dead skin cells, your daily moisturizer just sits on top without hydrating your new skin cells underneath. AHAs like glycolic acid can break through this layer of dead skin cells, enabling your moisturizer to hydrate your new skin cells more effectively.
This helps prevent side effects from AHAs. Daily use products — such as serum, toners, and moisturizers — contain lower AHA concentrations. For example, a serum or a toner might have a 5 percent AHA concentration. Highly concentrated products, such as glycolic acid peels, are used less frequently to reduce your risk of side effects. To reduce your risk of irritation, the Cleveland Clinic recommends using AHA products every other day. As your skin gets used to them, you can then start applying AHAs every day.
Also use extra caution when going out in the sun. The peeling effects of highly-concentrated AHAs may make your skin more sensitive to UV rays for up to one week after use. You should wear sunscreen daily and reapply more frequently to prevent sunburn.
Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding should also consult their doctor before use. Because of these effects, BHAs are most suitable for combination to oily skin. Lower concentrations may be used to help calm sensitive skin. You may also have more success with BHAs if you wanted to reduce rosacea-related redness.
If you want to tackle acne, look to BHAs. All AHAs yield significant exfoliation. Still, the effects and uses can slightly vary between types of acids. Your selected AHA should have a maximum concentration between 10 and 15 percent. Apply new products every other day until your skin gets used to them. This will also reduce the risk of side effects, such as irritation. No matter which AHA you choose, the strong exfoliating effects make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Wear sunscreen every morning to prevent burns, age spots, and increased skin cancer risks. Glycolic acid is the most common type of AHA. Glycolic acid provides significant exfoliation. This makes it an all-around treatment for many skin concerns. And thanks to its antimicrobial properties , it may even help prevent acne breakouts. Glycolic acid is found in a number of peels, as well as daily skin care products. Popular options include:.
Other AHAs frequently found in skin-care products include malic, citric, and tartaric acids, all of which are often referred to as fruit acids because of their sources.
According to Morgan Rabach, M. Rabach also notes that AHAs stimulate your skin's natural production of collagen , helping to improve firmness and diminish fine lines.
Glycolic acid is typically the favored AHA for especially effective exfoliation. Less irritating than glycolic acid but still a reliable exfoliator is lactic acid.
Aegean Chan, M. Markowitz adds that it pulls in water from the air and the deeper layers of your skin and brings it to the surface, helping create a plumper, more supple look. The fruit acids in the AHA family, like citric and malic, are considered to be the gentlest of the bunch because of their larger molecular size and tend to do their best work when paired with their stronger counterparts, glycolic and lactic acid. Most people — even those with sensitive skin — can use alpha hydroxy acids as long as they're approached wisely.
However, don't rush in. Hirsch adds. Not everyone should aim to use AHAs daily, though. Markowitz says that especially dry skin types should avoid using them, ironically because of their humectant abilities.
Since the percentage of glycolic acid is high, the fragrance-, sulfate- and phthalate-free foam cleanser works best with oily skin. It also includes two percent lactobionic acid , a patented antioxidant derived from sugar to help improve skin texture, tone and signs of aging. Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, is a fan of this "very gentle" exfoliator.
King calls this an "effective exfoliator that is a source of natural Alpha-Hydroxy Acids that help remove dead skin cells and evens skin pigmentation.
King recommends this alcohol-free toner that is a blend of six acids — phytic, malic, gluconolactone, lactic, salicylic and citric acids — which together exfoliates, clarifies and brightens the skin. There's also niacinamide or Vitamin B3 to "improve tone and texture and support the skin barrier to keep moisture locked-in," she says. Joshua Zeichner , MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital, also recommends this "non-irritating" toner.
King is also a fan of this budget-friendly toner with anti-inflammatory properties, including chamomile and witch hazel, which also helps to shrink the pores' appearance.
She says this toner is best for oily skin because the combination of glycolic and lactic acids exfoliates and removes excess oil. Zeichner recommends this face scrub that is non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn't clog pores.
Instead, glycolic and salicylic acids help remove oil and dead cells that build up around the pores to minimize their appearance. The soap-free exfoliator is gentle enough for you to use daily, although you may want to consider introducing it into your skin care routine a few times a week to start to be sure that your skin can tolerate the scrub. Zeichner also suggests this drugstore find which "combines citric and glycolic acid with a soy and kiwi complex to exfoliate and brighten the skin.
Since , I've been applying this light-weight, clear gel to my face to keep my oily skin in check.
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